Healthy Exfoliation – part 3

Proper exfoliation – keeping the skin in balance
Enzymes: Papain and Bromelain
Papain, an enzyme from papaya, and bromelain, and enzyme from pineapple, both exfoliate by digesting intercorneocyte cohesion (decomposing proteins into smaller fragments causing skin softening and sloughing). These enzymes are not pH dependent, they are activated by water and limited in the amount of exfoliating they can do – so they are considered a great choice for sensitive or thin skins.

Mechanical
Employs the use of sloughing ingredients to loosen and reduce the outer conreocytes that comprise the stratum corneum when using friction “scrubbing” or gommage “rubbing”. It is important not to use harsh abrasive materials, too much pressure, or mechanically exfoliate too often as these can lead to skin irritation

Allow the acid mantle time to rebuild. Avoid constant inflammation by choosing one of these
gentle forms of exfoliation at a time and NOT exfoliate every day – 2-3 times per week at the most.

Know when to exfoliate: Skin Signs

  • Uneven skin texture
  • More than 14 days have passed since your last exfoliation
  • Thick skin texture
  • Need for deep cleansing (to remove excess makeup or debris)

And when not to: Skin Signs

  • Redness / irritation / inflammation
  • Thin skin
  • Visible capillaries
  • Topical retinoid use
  • Recent exfoliation / peel
  • Recent sun overexposure
  • Sunburn

Post Exfoliation Supplementation
After exfoliating it is important to supplement with natural sources of antioxidants and vitamins. This way, the nutrients that have been taken from the dermis and sent up to the epidermis during cellular turnover are replenished and the dermal layer will not be starved, lowering the risk of dermal thinning. This is especially important for thinner skin or skin with any of the following conditions: visible capillaries, hyper pigmentation, sensitivity, or breakouts.

Receiving regular professional facial treatments (once every 1-2 months) will greatly increase the health of your skin. The level of exfoliation and supplementation, along with lymphatic and circulation stimulation techniques is only possible in a professional treatment, and not something that we can do at home. The best results re achieved when these professional facials are paired with simple but effective basic skincare at home to keep skin clean, hydrated and nourished.

written by Jennifer Laz, Licensed Esthetician, bien-être spa

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