03/02/2010 In Community

A man named Andrew McCarrell was recently awarded $25 million in damages from Roche Industries as a result of side effects associated with his Accutane use and the medical problems that followed. The Huffington Post reports: Accutane Lawsuit.

Unfortunately, this lawsuit does not come as a surprise to many professionals in the skincare industry.

Accutane (or isotretinoin), a prescription medication for acne based in a large dose of synthetic Vitamin A. It was once dished out to many patients as a wonder drug capable of clearing skin where other medications had failed to be effective. However, many medical side effects have been discovered and reported making it more difficult than ever to get a prescription. You now even have to go through a series of physical and psychiatric exams to be eligible for an Accutane prescription. These are followed by several release and consent forms requiring your signature, and if you happen to be a minor, the signature of your parents as well.

Because Accutane is synthetic Vitamin A – it is not tolerated by the body the way a natural Vitamin A or retinoid is and can place a lot of undue stress on internal organs. Tretinoin is another synthetic Vitamin A treatment, although less potent. I want to stress the difference between synthetic and natural Vitamin A treatments. Natural Vitamin A is very beneficial for treating acne, as well as many other skin conditions. It works best when combined with dietary or lifestyle adjustments, because unsightly skin conditions are a symptom of internal imbalance in the body. Here is a bit more information on Accutane and it’s possible health risks:

Accutane Side Effects
AOCD: Accutane

Its important to note that Accutane is a DRUG. Any drug will come with potentially harmful side effects and health threats. My professional skin care philosophy is anti-drug, but there are many estheticians and dermatologists who promote them. The best advice I can give is to educate yourself as much as possible before making any decisions on drug related skincare.

Acne is an awful thing to go through. Many times, it is hormonal and temporary. Other times it can be a sign of a systemic inflammatory imbalance that needs to be addressed both topically and internally. But before going to prescriptive extremes, consider all your options in treatment.

Here are some of the leading acne treatments available today:

• acupuncture
• homeopathy and nutritional counseling
• gentle fasting (under a professional’s supervision)
• vegan diet
• green powder supplementation (like Vitamineral Green)
• allergy testing
• Salycilic or Jessner peels
• Purifying facials
• Blue and Red LED treatments
• topical natural retinoids (Vitamin A)
• topical anti-inflammatories
• stem cells

If you’d like more information on Holistic Acne treatments, just ASK!

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03/01/2010 In Skin Care 101

We love mineral make-up, so its no surprise that we were excited to see Jane Iredale’s Make-Up Blog land in our laps (well, lap-tops, is more like it!) Jane Iredale is the founding mother of mineral makeup and she has a line of goodies that would rival any of the cosmetic giants. Her blog is full of ideas and make-up tips and how-to’s, so we thought we’d share:

Make-up Blog -  Jane Iredale

Another Mineral Make-up line to covet is Everyday Minerals.

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03/01/2010 In Ask-an-esthetician answers

Melasma runs in my family and I have had it since being pregnant with my first son. I recently found your wonderful site and that of Dr. Mercola’s that points to thyroid imbalance as the factor of Melasma. I have started to include raw sea vegetables, radishes, and cranberries into my diet. I am planning on getting topical Vitamin A oil to put on my face as per the suggestion on your article, Hormones and the skin part 2. I am considering taking iodine supplements and wondered if it is safe for me to do this without proper testing and visits to the doctor. I must say, I mostly eat organic foods and for most part am healthy. Please advise if eating these organic based iodine rich foods, topical vitamin A oil, and Iodine supplement (SSKI) is OK? Thank you so much for your very knowledgeable site and information so far.

Melasma, or mask of pregnancy, is usually your skin’s response to heightened estrogen and progesterone levels. Many times, this is due to the pregnancy itself, but can also be brought on or worsened by hormonal medications and birth control. Genetics does play a part in whether or not one will be prone to melasma or hyper pigmentation, but there are some things you can do to minimize it (and in some cases, clear it up altogether.)

Thyroid can be a factor – but it is usually not the main cause. I think in your case, it was more estrogen and progesterone. Thyroid could have played a part, as did genetic disposition, but I wouldn’t focus solely on that for treatment. My advice comes from a skin care perspective and is not intended to replace medical advice. Before any internal supplementation or drastic dietary change, you do want to consult with your doctor. My advice for you is to go to a doctor who has both Eastern and Western training.

Here is what I would recommend as far as treatment:

First of all, be sure to eliminate any phyto or xeno estrogens from your diet and lifestyle. The most common xeno estrogens come from medications like birth control and plastics (plastic bags, wrap, containers, drinking bottles, etc.) Try to use glass or metal instead of plastic whenever possible, and do not heat anything in plastic. For more info on plastics, read FDA Changes Their Minda About BPA.

The most common phyto estrogens are soy products: tofu, beggie soy burgers, etc. Unfortunately, soy is also fed to many animals raised for meat – so we get it there. It is also added to many prepared and packaged foods – so read labels to check for “soy” anything and avoid it.

Now that that’s settled, supplementation and topical treatment is also recommended for melasma. MSM (or sulfur) and grape seed extract are the two I would recommend starting with. They are both great supplements to take internally along with your diet rich in natural anti inflammatories and antioxidants (you spoke about your healthy diet – so definitely continue with that!) Talk to your naturopath, acupuncturist or nutritionist to determine the best brands and dosage for these supplements. Topically, retinoids are helpful. The key is to find them in a potent yet natural form. Because Vitamin A is fat soluble, it is best to find it in a topical cream or lotion instead of an oil – it will be more potent that way. Read my post on Retinoids: Take Your Skin to The Gym.

Other topical ingredients that are helpful are AHAs, like glycolic or lactic acid. These will aid in skin exfoliation and help to naturally brighten and hydrate your skin. You can use skin lighteners like hydroquinone, but only in moderation and for temporary use. Hydroquinone will prevent your skin from producing melanin temporarily, but will also make your skin more vulnerable in the sun. Natural skin lightening ingredients like bilberry, beta glucan and licorice will also aid in melasma without the side effects. Getting professional peels, LED or stem cell treatments, and lightening facials will all benefit you as well. Just be sure to go to an experienced esthetician who knows the importance of moderation!

Sun protection is extremely important as both heat and UV rays can promote pigmentation. Be sure to get a sun BLOCK with Zinc and / or Titanium Dioxide as the only active ingredients. Stay away from synthetic sunscreens as they will still bring too much heat into your skin and can be toxic. Because skin pigments when it is stressed, this also needs to be minimized. Try to lower your stress level, avoid overheating, and cut down on chemicals like preservatives, additives, and pesticides in food (if you haven’t already done so.)

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck to you!

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02/24/2010 In Spa Resources

In the spirit of the 2010 Winter Olympics, we wanted to share this great article on some of the top spas in Vancouver, British Columbia. In keeping with recent international spa trends, these day and resort spas combine luxury with therapy, providing amazing treatments like hot stone and lomi lomi massage, auryvedic shiradhara treatments, hammams, detoxifying body wraps and more!

How would you rate these Vancouver spas? Anyone up for a Vancouver vacation?

Here are two others in whistler that we think would be worthy of a medal as well:
The Spa at The Four Seasons Whistler

and

Taman Sari Spa

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02/24/2010 In Skin Care 101

What’s The Most Important Part of Your Skin?

It’s your epidermal-dermal junction, or the area where your dermis connects to your epidermis. This connection between the two levels of skin is vitally important due to the roles it plays in cellular communication, nutrient exchange and absorption and other skin functions.

Epidermal-Dermal Junction, what’s your function?

The first may be the most obvious: it attaches the epidermis to the dermis. It sounds like a basic job, yet it’s possibly the most important. The layers of the epidermis are continually moving upward, throwing their “contents” overboard, flattening, building up at the surface and then eventually sloughing off to make room for the cells right behind them. This natural movement or “keratinization” of the skin is an integral part of skin renewal and healing. It would not be possible without the epidermal-dermal Junction (EDJ) maintaining the relationship between the two main layers of skin, allowing for healthy communication from the top all the way to the bottom.

The EDJ is also responsible for the exchange of nutrients back and forth from the epidermis to the dermis. These nutrients are carried in the blood from the food we eat and absorbed through the pores from topical application. Vitamins, antioxidants, acids and other nutrients are needed for DNA repair, new cell production, protection from outside elements and oxidative stress and more. In youth, this junction is a healthy, wavy terrain. The finger-like waves in the junction, called rete ridges, form the interlocking connection between the dermis and epidermis. They increase the surface area of the epidermis that is exposed to these blood vessels and the needed nutrients. Without this nutrient exchange, skin would suffer premature aging and damage.

As we age or stress our skin, it tends to flatten out. If the junction completely flat lines, no pun intended, the communication and nutrient exchange comes to a halt. So, in order to maintain skin healthy – and youth – you want to keep the communication open and the EDJ’s rete waves as wavy as possible. This means proper diet and topical skin supplementation as well as limiting over exfoliation, over exposure to harsh elements and any other form of stress or trauma.

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