What Can I do For My Melasma?

Melasma runs in my family and I have had it since being pregnant with my first son. I recently found your wonderful site and that of Dr. Mercola’s that points to thyroid imbalance as the factor of Melasma. I have started to include raw sea vegetables, radishes, and cranberries into my diet. I am planning on getting topical Vitamin A oil to put on my face as per the suggestion on your article, Hormones and the skin part 2. I am considering taking iodine supplements and wondered if it is safe for me to do this without proper testing and visits to the doctor. I must say, I mostly eat organic foods and for most part am healthy. Please advise if eating these organic based iodine rich foods, topical vitamin A oil, and Iodine supplement (SSKI) is OK? Thank you so much for your very knowledgeable site and information so far.

Melasma, or mask of pregnancy, is usually your skin’s response to heightened estrogen and progesterone levels. Many times, this is due to the pregnancy itself, but can also be brought on or worsened by hormonal medications and birth control. Genetics does play a part in whether or not one will be prone to melasma or hyper pigmentation, but there are some things you can do to minimize it (and in some cases, clear it up altogether.)

Thyroid can be a factor – but it is usually not the main cause. I think in your case, it was more estrogen and progesterone. Thyroid could have played a part, as did genetic disposition, but I wouldn’t focus solely on that for treatment. My advice comes from a skin care perspective and is not intended to replace medical advice. Before any internal supplementation or drastic dietary change, you do want to consult with your doctor. My advice for you is to go to a doctor who has both Eastern and Western training.

Here is what I would recommend as far as treatment:

First of all, be sure to eliminate any phyto or xeno estrogens from your diet and lifestyle. The most common xeno estrogens come from medications like birth control and plastics (plastic bags, wrap, containers, drinking bottles, etc.) Try to use glass or metal instead of plastic whenever possible, and do not heat anything in plastic. For more info on plastics, read FDA Changes Their Minda About BPA.

The most common phyto estrogens are soy products: tofu, beggie soy burgers, etc. Unfortunately, soy is also fed to many animals raised for meat – so we get it there. It is also added to many prepared and packaged foods – so read labels to check for “soy” anything and avoid it.

Now that that’s settled, supplementation and topical treatment is also recommended for melasma. MSM (or sulfur) and grape seed extract are the two I would recommend starting with. They are both great supplements to take internally along with your diet rich in natural anti inflammatories and antioxidants (you spoke about your healthy diet – so definitely continue with that!) Talk to your naturopath, acupuncturist or nutritionist to determine the best brands and dosage for these supplements. Topically, retinoids are helpful. The key is to find them in a potent yet natural form. Because Vitamin A is fat soluble, it is best to find it in a topical cream or lotion instead of an oil – it will be more potent that way. Read my post on Retinoids: Take Your Skin to The Gym.

Other topical ingredients that are helpful are AHAs, like glycolic or lactic acid. These will aid in skin exfoliation and help to naturally brighten and hydrate your skin. You can use skin lighteners like hydroquinone, but only in moderation and for temporary use. Hydroquinone will prevent your skin from producing melanin temporarily, but will also make your skin more vulnerable in the sun. Natural skin lightening ingredients like bilberry, beta glucan and licorice will also aid in melasma without the side effects. Getting professional peels, LED or stem cell treatments, and lightening facials will all benefit you as well. Just be sure to go to an experienced esthetician who knows the importance of moderation!

Sun protection is extremely important as both heat and UV rays can promote pigmentation. Be sure to get a sun BLOCK with Zinc and / or Titanium Dioxide as the only active ingredients. Stay away from synthetic sunscreens as they will still bring too much heat into your skin and can be toxic. Because skin pigments when it is stressed, this also needs to be minimized. Try to lower your stress level, avoid overheating, and cut down on chemicals like preservatives, additives, and pesticides in food (if you haven’t already done so.)

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck to you!

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What is Microphototherapy?

Light | What is Microphototherapy? | ask an esthetician answers

Hi,

Have you heard about or know anyone that has received microphototherapy??

Thanks so much for your great question!

Yes, I have heard of Microphototherapy. It refers to certain Light Therapy Treatments for skincare purposes. More specifically, it refers to LHE, or Light / Heat Energy Therapy.

Here’s a little breakdown:

Phototherapy balances wavelengths, intensity and exposure duration among other parameters to tailor treatment to specific needs and conditions.

The three main forms of non ablative light therapy are IPL, LHE and LED. These lasers have lower energy levels than ablative lasers (which exfoliate the outer layer of skin completely) and set up injury (with the exception of LED, which doesn’t set up injury) within the dermal layer of the skin without removal of the outer epidermal layers. This lessens the recovery period after the treatment and reduces the number of complications that can occur. That being said, here is a basic description of each:

IPL – Intense Pulsed Light – involves some discomfort as specific wavelengths of light penetrate the skin and break up clusters of red and brown pigments. These clusters then come up and slough off the surface of the skin. For this reason, IPL is popular for uneven pigmentation or vascular lesions. IPL needs to be performed by a nurse or doctor because of the intensity of the Laser. There is no real downtime, but skin is sun sensitive and pink following treatment.

LHE – Light Heat Energy– uses both Light and Heat Energy to affect the dermis, but is virtually painless. LHE is used for hair removal as well as pigment balancing and wrinkle reduction. It is gentle, but does set up an injury in the skin in order to stimulate healing processes and collagen production. Usually 6 to 8 treatments are recommended to gain the best visible results. LHE also needs to be administered by a nurse or doctor in most states. You may find it available in spas. Just be sure to visit an experienced professional.

LED - LED Skin Rejuvenation is the interaction of specific wavelengths and colors of light to activate cell receptors causing them to produce collagen or multiply. LED is a non-invasive, yet effective way to increase the energy levels in the skin, thus promoting collagen synthesis and cell renewal. Red LED increases wound healing and collagen synthesis. Blue LED reduces inflammation, reduces bacteria and normalizes oil production. While the two other light-based skin therapies rely on thermal injury to the skin to create changes in the skin appearance, LED Skin Rejuvenation does not rely on thermal energy and the related tissue trauma to effect change. Therefore, patients are not subject to the possible side effects associated with wound healing. LED can be performed by a licensed esthetician.

I have heard of all three treatments, and have clients and friends who’ve received IPL and LED. I am a regular LED-er myself, and love the results. LHE is a little newer, so I do not know anyone who has received it in the San Diego area.

bien-etre incorporates blue and red LED therapies into several facial treatments. Here is an article for more information on LED Therapy.

You can also visit our skincare studio to see the different LED therapy treatments available!

-Be Well

Jennifer

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Skincare Questions Answered

Why do face pimples hurt? And why do I get them in odd places?

QuestionsA: These pimples usually hurt because there is built-up pressure and inflammation after sebaceous glands -oil glands- become clogged. These breakouts can also occur when the kidneys. Gallbladder and liver get overloaded and the skin kicks in to aid the body in the elimination of toxins. The best thing to do is calm inflammation with cold compresses and keep skin clean. Spot treatments are generally helpful for killing bacteria and gently exfoliating in order to help unclog the oil gland. We can get them anywhere on our body, but we tend to get them where there’s been a build up of cellular debris, oil or makeup.

OK, so winter is approaching and my skin drys out like a lot of other people’s skin, my face especially. I currently use a hand moisturizer but I think it makes my face feel greasy. Any suggestions of products I can use? (more…)

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Black Head, White Head, Milia?

milia | Black Head, White Head, Milia? | ask an esthetician answersWhat causes me to have these white little bumps on my face? When taken out, they can not be squeezed out, they are really hard and round. They are not black heads, and I am not sure if you call these white heads.
Thanks.
Margit

Margit,
Thanks so much for your great question.  The bumps you are describing sound like milia. White heads and black heads are the common “street names” for closed and open comedones (respectively.) Comedones are the result of clogged pores and can be extracted fairly easily.
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Is There a Budget Friendly Cleanser Good for My Dry Skin?

colorado mountains 300x234 | Is There a Budget Friendly Cleanser Good for My Dry Skin? | ask an esthetician answersIs there a budget friendly cleanser good for my dry skin?

- Heather from Colorado

Heather,
Yes there is!

Let’s first discuss why your skin is feeling so dry. Living in Colorado at a higher elevation, your skin is subjected to the harsh conditions of cold, dry, thin air. This air literally sucks the moisture from your skin…cruel I know.

Back in the good old days when we were all hunter / gatherers living outdoors in these conditions, our skin would protect us by building up a thick layer of dead, flattened cells on the surface – not unlike the siding on the outside of a house. While this was very helpful at the time, the need for this excessive protective barrier disappeared with the invention of central heat, insulation, and the roof over our heads.
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